How to Choose Carabiners
Locking vs. Non-locking
Locking carabiners have gates that can be locked to prevent accidental openings. Use them for belay/rappel devices and critical protection placements. Choose between:
- Screw-lock: Requires manual twisting to close.
- Auto-locking: Automatically locks when the gate closes.
Non-locking carabiners are lighter, quicker to clip or unclip but can accidentally open. Ideal for racking gear or for quickdraws.
Shape
- Asymmetric D: Most common design; lightweight with a large gate for easy clipping. Great for sport and trad climbing.
- D shape: Strongest shape, excellent for most kinds of climbing. Ideal for racking trad gear.
- Pear shape: Designed for belaying, rappelling and anchor points. Heavier and more expensive.
- Oval shape: Smaller gate opening and affordable. Ideal for aid climbing or racking trad gear. Not as strong or light as other shapes.
Gate Types
- Straight-gate: Durable and easy to use. Good for various purposes and sport-climbing quickdraws.
- Bent-gate: Makes rope clipping easier. Generally used for quickdraws.
- Wire-gate: Lightweight, less likely to vibrate open during a fall or freezing shut.
- Locking: Most secure; required for use with belay/rappelling devices and critical protection placements.
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